War memorials have an expected and understandable sombre aura around them, the shadows of what they’re honouring hang like veils. Heads are low, voices are quiet and children are kept to heel. Yet the Hiroshima Peace Park is as far removed from the above as possible. Forgiveness and renewal replace the awkward silences.
The A-Bomb dome stands, half stone half structure and guarded by fencing, just by the entrance of the park. Its main job, to slow passers-by down just enough that they take the time to read the mass of information, history and facts provided. Folders in all different languages are ready for the curious and they all end with the same heart-breaking letter.
The history of ‘that day’ is written onto statues, more specifically a row of square, metal archs which line the bottom of the park. The word, peace, is artfully carved into every visible surface, over and over again in over 50 different languages. From English to Afrikans to Hebrew, the plea for peace is thundering.
And as you walk through them, tracing the steps of the thousands of people who came before you, you do so quietly and slowly, trying to read every last word. Even though your brain doesn’t understand the words your body understands the meaning.
What’s is maybe the most surprising are the colours; the reds, blues, oranges and greens. Bright colours, articial and natural, liven the paths and the monuments, and the river that flows through brings calm and tranquility. In particular, the 1000 paper crane memorial, a group of 6-feet glass boxes, is filled with hand-folded origami cranes of all colours and prints, donated by the children and parents from around Hiroshima. They surround a bell, suspended by a statue of two primary school aged children. A beautiful and incredibly colourful display that makes it unable to feel sad.
Hiroshima’s desire for rebirth is evident in the festivals, carnivals and flowers shows it holds for the communities and tourists alike. Competing dance troups and 30ft high flower floats, live music and craft stalls. It’s difficult not to enjoy a trip to the Peace park and as much as you think you shouldn’t, it isn’t a place for sadness and regret it’s a place for reflection and love.
Of course what happened there will never be forgotten and nor should it be. The impacts of the bombs, the emotions of the victims and their families can still be felt but the people of Hiroshima should be applauded for their humility and grace and their refusal to let it define their future.
Reluctant Wanderer 